----------------------------------------------------------------------------.
Title           : Arcade Game Pinouts                                       :
Date            : 09-January-2003                                           :
Source          : taken from the Conversion FAQ v1.1                        :
                  by Doug Jefferys, Steve Ozdemir                           :
                  and pinout identification by Tim Lindquist                :
----------------------------------------------------------------------------.
                                                                            :
+---------.                                                                 :
1) Pinouts \                                                                :
------------`---------------------------------------------------------------.
                                                                            :
1.1) JAMMA.                                                                 :
                                                                            :
       The JAMMA standard was invented in 1985; any game older than         :
       this will not be JAMMA. JAMMA (Japan Arcade Machine Manufacturers'   :
       Association) is a standard 56-way connector used on many arcade      :
       boards to simplify conversion of cabinets from one game to another.  :
       The majority of newer games use a subset of this pinout. Some games  :
       (i.e., Street Fighter) which need extra buttons have extra           :
       connectors for these additional controls. The JAMMA connector has a  :
       .156" (3.96mm) pin spacing edge connector (male on the game board).  :
       For reference, here is the JAMMA pinout:                             :
                                                                            :
       ---------------------------------------------------------            :
              Solder Side          |          Parts Side                    :
       ----------------------------+----------------------------            :
                      GND      | A | 1 |      GND                           :
                      GND      | B | 2 |      GND                           :
                      +5V      | C | 3 |      +5V                           :
                      +5V      | D | 4 |      +5V                           :
                      -5V      | E | 5 |      -5V                           :
                     +12V      | F | 6 |      +12V                          :
                  - KEY -      | H | 7 |      - KEY -                       :
          Coin Counter #2      | J | 8 |      Coin Counter #1               :
         Lock Out Coil #2      | K | 9 |      Lock Out Coil #1              :
              Speaker (-)      | L | 10|      Speaker (+)                   :
                               | M | 11|                                    :
              Video Green      | N | 12|      Video Red                     :
               Video Sync      | P | 13|      Video Blue                    :
           Service Switch      | R | 14|      Video GND                     :
              Tilt Switch      | S | 15|      Test Switch                   :
           Coin Switch #2      | T | 16|      Coin Switch #1                :
                2P  Start      | U | 17|      1P  Start                     :
                   2P  Up      | V | 18|      1P  Up                        :
                 2P  Down      | W | 19|      1P  Down                      :
                 2P  Left      | X | 20|      1P  Left                      :
                2P  Right      | Y | 21|      1P  Right                     :
             2P  Button 1      | Z | 22|      1P  Button 1                  :
             2P  Button 2      | a | 23|      1P  Button 2                  :
             2P  Button 3      | b | 24|      1P  Button 3                  :
                               | c | 25|                                    :
                               | d | 26|                                    :
                      GND      | e | 27|      GND                           :
                      GND      | f | 28|      GND                           :
      ----------------------------------------------------------            :
                                                                            :
1.2) Konami.                                                                :
                                                                            :
       We're also including the Konami standard pinout, as it was           :
       also used on many games by many different manufacturers.             :
                                                                            :
       ------------------------------------------------------               :
           Solder Side          |          Parts Side                       :
       -------------------------+----------------------------               :
                   -5V      | A | 1 |      +12V                             :
               Speaker      | B | 2 |      Speaker                          :
          2P  Button 2      | C | 3 |      2P  Button 1                     :
              2P  Left      | D | 4 |      2P  Right                        :
             1P  Start      | E | 5 |      2P  Start                        :
          1P  Button 2      | F | 6 |      2P  Up                           :
          1P  Button 1      | H | 7 |      Service Switch                   :
             1P  Right      | J | 8 |      1P  Left                         :
                1P  Up      | K | 9 |      2P  Down                         :
             Coin  (1)      | L | 10|      Coin  (2)                        :
              1P  Down      | M | 11|      Coin Counter #1                  :
          1P  Button 3      | N | 12|      Coin Counter #2                  :
           Video Green      | P | 13|      Video Blue                       :
             Video Red      | R | 14|      Video Sync                       :
                            | S | 15|                                       :
                   GND      | T | 16|      GND                              :
                   GND      | U | 17|      GND                              :
                   +5V      | V | 18|      +5V                              :
       ------------------------------------------------------               :
                                                                            :
+---------------------.                                                     :
2) Identifying pinouts \                                                    :
------------------------`---------------------------------------------------.
                                                                            :
       Identifying pinouts of unknown boards can be difficult.              :
       We offer the following approach:                                     :
                                                                            :
       1) Do you already have a copy of the game's pinout?  If so,          :
          you're done.  (Make sure you've got the *right* copy of           :
          the game's pinouts.  Moon Cresta, for instance, was made          :
          by at least four different manufacturers, three of whom           :
          used different pinouts...)                                        :
                                                                            :
       2) Is the manufacturer shown?  If so, who are they, and do           :
          you have any copies of pinouts by the same manufacturer?          :
          If so, compare them; do they "make sense" if you try them         :
          against the method outlined in steps 4-8) below?                  :
                                                                            :
       3) If it's a Japanese name, and a fairly new board, and it's         :
          got a 56-pin connector, it's probably JAMMA.  Still, it           :
          always pays to double-check before you plug something in          :
          based on your assumptions.  There *ARE* 56-pin connectors         :
          which aren't JAMMA, so the double-check is still important.       :
                                                                            :
       4) Okay, now you're desperate :-)  Get a list of all the             :
          pinouts that you *DO* know.                                       :
                                                                            :
       5) Eliminate any pinouts with connectors that don't match            :
          the board in question.                                            :
                                                                            :
       6) Look at telltale markers, like the power pins; you should         :
          be able to identify +5V and GND fairly easily by tracing          :
          backwards from some TTL chips.  Using this, and the number        :
          of pins on the connector, should allow you to eliminate a         :
          few more pinouts.                                                 :
                                                                            :
       7) With the few pinouts you have left, look for audio and video      :
          pins.  These are generally grouped together; two pins going       :
          to the same location (often a heat-sinked audio amplifier         :
          chip) will probably be audio, and four pins, three of which       :
          go to one chip and a fourth of which goes to a nearby chip,       :
          will likely be video.  Large groupings of pins that go            :
          through resistors and/or diodes will likely be control            :
          input pins.                                                       :
                                                                            :
       8) *NOW* do you have a match?  If so, start "experimenting";         :
          make a few assumptions and try powering the board up              :
          without any video or controls connected and "experiment"          :
          by looking for fluctuating signals (characteristic of video       :
          or audio) on the pins.  This is a fairly involved process,        :
          but can be simplified greatly by use of a partially-              :
          constructed adaptor to your current wiring harness.               :
          (Indeed, this is one of the reasons adaptors are fairly           :
          popular; they often get created through the process of            :
          determining the pinout from an otherwise unknown board)           :
                                                                            :
          Note that this can be something of a risky procedure if you       :
          don't know what you're doing.  For your first few times,          :
          you may want to do everything except powering up the board.       :
          Write down your best guesses, describe the board, and ask         :
          the 'net if anyone out there recognizes it and knows the          :
          pinouts.  You might just get lucky, and if your guesses           :
          were right, you'll give your self-confidence a great boost.       :
                                                                            :
2.1) Determining pinouts with a volt meter (more ways to figure it out).    :
                                                                            :
          We know where +5V and ground are because almost all EPROMs have   :
          +5V on the upper right pin (notch facing up) and ground on the    :
          lower left pin, so we use our volt meter on the ohms setting to   :
          find the pins on the edge connector with close to 0 resistance to :
          those pins on an EPROM. +5V and ground is enough to power 90% of  :
          the boards out there.                                             :
                                                                            :
          We now need to find the video outputs. First, connect video       :
          ground to any ground and turn the power on. Then, take the        :
          composite sync wire and run it along the remaining pins until     :
          you get raster. It's safe to run it along any pins we like at     :
          this point because all we have hooked up right now is ground and  :
          +5V, both of which are safe to touch with the sync wire. Even     :
          with no colors hooked up, you can tell when you find sync because :
          you will get solid black raster, which is different from no       :
          raster. You will know. Next, we need some color. Green video is   :
          almost always right next to sync, so try touching the green video :
          wire to the pin left of or right of the sync. If you get a green  :
          picture, swell. Otherwise, keep touching pins until you get a     :
          green picture. Once you've found it, red and blue are sure to be  :
          near by. Usually red is on the opposite side of green and blue is :
          opposite sync. Try those first, if not, the layout is usually red,:
          green, blue all in a row, so try either side of the green video.  :
          Now we have power and video. If the picture colors look wrong     :
          (red skies and blue explosions), try swapping around the colors   :
          until things look right.                                          :
                                                                            :
          Next we need to find the sound output. Sound amps almost always   :
          need +12V for power. Power traces are usually thicker than inputs :
          and video, so we need to look for a thick trace that goes over to :
          the audio amp section of the board. Speaker + and - are usually   :
          right next to the power. If the part number on the amp is         :
          readable, it's usually pretty easy to find the pinouts for the    :
          amp on the internet and double check your suspects that way.      :
                                                                            :
          Next is inputs. This is pretty easy. Just take a wire, hold one   :
          end to ground and run the other end along the remaining pins,     :
          being carefull to avoid the power pins, until you get a credit.   :
          That will be either coin 1 or coin 2. Repeat until you get        :
          another credit on a different pin (which will be the other coin   :
          input or the service switch) or until the game starts. Make note  :
          whether it started a 1 or 2 player game so you'll know which it   :
          was. Power down and repeat to find the other start pin. Once a    :
          game is started, just repeat to find up, down, left, right, fire, :
          jump, or whatever else there is.                                  :
                                                                            :
          Some boards need -5V to power audio or if the board has 4116 RAM  :
          chips, they need -5V, too. -5V is on pin 1 of of 4116's (upper    :
          left pin, notch facing up), so use your meter to find the -5V pin :
          on the edge connector.                                            :
                                                                            :
          -5V is sometimes used for audio on some Konami games, but most    :
          Konami game pinouts are listed on www.spies.com/arcade, so go     :
          check there. =)  (section provided by tim@arcadecollecting.com)   :
                                                                            :
2.2) Unused connectors.                                                     :
                                                                            :
       If there are empty connectors on the board, don't panic. Some        :
       boards have "test connectors" that are unused during normal          :
       use.  If you don't know whether a certain board or board set         :
       is complete, ask the 'net if anyone knows "how many boards           :
       and connectors were used in XYZ".                                    :
                                                                            :
+----------.                                                                :
3) Adaptors \                                                               :
-------------`--------------------------------------------------------------.
                                                                            :
3.1) Jammatization.                                                         :
                                                                            :
       Adaptors are one of the easiest and cheapest approaches to           :
       doing conversions; this is why JAMMA cabinets are so popular         :
       among collectors, even among those of us who prefer "classic"        :
       games.  Large collectors will often accumulate a series of           :
       adaptors for their games, all of which convert to a standard         :
       pinout, usually JAMMA.  Although the process is the same as          :
       building any other type of adaptor, the "random-raster-game          :
       to JAMMA" conversion is so common that it has become known           :
       colloquially as "Jammatization".                                     :
                                                                            :
3.2) Construction techniques.                                               :
                                                                            :
       There are two main approaches to adaptor construction.  The          :
       "right" approach for you will depend on what set of parts you        :
       can most easily replace.                                             :
                                                                            :
       Both approaches involve an XX-pin (female, and "XX" depends on       :
       the board in question) edge connector for the non-JAMMA board        :
       and a 56-pin "finger board" (a straight piece of PCB, also           :
       known as a "male-to-male" connector), and a 56-pin (female)          :
       edge connector for the JAMMA side.                                   :
                                                                            :
       1) Skip the 56-pin connector and solder the wires directly           :
          from the XX-pin connector to the finger board.  The               :
          resulting finger board end of the adaptor can be plugged          :
          directly into your JAMMA harness.  You'll use one finger          :
          board per adaptor.                                                :
                                                                            :
          The end result would look something like this:                    :
                                                                            :
                  --------< <---------->~~~~~\/~~~~~~~~~~------<            :
          TO      --------< <---------->~~~~~'\/~~~~~~~~~------<  DIG       :
          JAMMA   --------< <---------->~~~~~~'\/~~~~~~~~------<  DUG       :
          WIRING  --------< <---------->~~~~~~~'`~~~~~~~~------<  PCB       :
          HARNESS --------< <---------->       /~~~~~~~~~------<            :
                  --------< <---------->~~~~~~'                             :
                   56-pin     male-male  Wires that map  44-pin             :
                   female     PCB with   JAMMA pinouts   female             :
                   edge       straight   to 44-pin Dig   edge               :
                   connector  traces     Dug pinout.     connector          :
                                                                            :
       Alternatively...                                                     :
                                                                            :
       2) Instead of soldering the wires to the finger board, solder        :
          the wires from the XX-pin connector to a 56-pin connector.        :
          Plug one end of the finger board into the 56-pin connector,       :
          and the other end into your JAMMA harness.                        :
                                                                            :
          Rather than using a finger board for each adaptor, you're         :
          using one 56-pin connector per adaptor, as the finger board       :
          can be used between different adaptors.                           :
                                                                            :
          The end result is reproduced here for quick reference.            :
                                                                            :
               -------< <----------> >---------~~~~~\/~~~~~~~~~------<      :
       TO      -------< <----------> >---------~~~~~'\/~~~~~~~~------< DIG  :
       JAMMA   -------< <----------> >---------~~~~~~'\/~~~~~~~------< DUG  :
       WIRING  -------< <----------> >---------~~~~~~~'`~~~~~~~------< PCB  :
       HARNESS -------< <----------> >---------       /~~~~~~~~------<      :
               -------< <----------> >---------~~~~~~'                      :
                56-pin    male-male   56-pin    Wires that map  44-pin      :
                female    PCB with    female    JAMMA pinouts   female      :
                edge      straight    edge      to 44-pin Dig   edge        :
                connector traces      connector Dug pinout.     connector   :
                                                                            :
          Like we said right at the introduction, the "right"               :
          approach for you depends on your resources; this is a             :
          perfect example.  If you live near a surplus store that           :
          has 56-pin female edge connectors for $1.00 apiece, but           :
          you only have a few finger boards, grab a big pile of             :
          connectors go with method 2.  If it's easier to use               :
          mail-order, and finger boards are half the price of edge          :
          connectors, get a big pile of finger boards and go with           :
          method 1.                                                         :
                                                                            :
+----------------------------------------.                                  :
4) RGB, Sync, polarity, and all that rot. \                                 :
-------------------------------------------`--------------------------------.
                                                                            :
4.1) The Basics.                                                            :
                                                                            :
       Rick Schieve has written a text file on raster video basics;         :
       check out reference {9.3.6} (Raster Monitors) in the bibliography    :
       for more information, but we'll summarize the high points here.      :
                                                                            :
       All raster monitors use generally the same set of inputs -           :
       RGB, and some form of sync.  RGB stands for "Red, Green, and         :
       Blue", and denotes the colors of the beams.  Sync is for             :
       "synchronization", the process by which the electron beam in         :
       a raster monitor sweeps across the screen.                           :
                                                                            :
       (You may have heard the terms "horizontal", "vertical", and          :
       "composite" sync.  For now, just consider "horizontal" sync to       :
       be the sync pulse at the end of each line on the screen, the         :
       "vertical" sync to be the pulse at the end of each screenful         :
       of data, and "composite" sync to be a magical combination of         :
       both.  We'll get into the gory details soon enough :-)               :
                                                                            :
       So far, so good, right?                                              :
                                                                            :
       Wrong.  While all these signals are common to raster games,          :
       they come in different (and alas, incompatible) flavors.             :
       Working around these difficulties can be one of the more             :
       confusing problems for someone doing conversions.  That's            :
       where this FAQ comes in.  We'll try and describe the common          :
       variants, and give a few examples of games that use them.            :
       You should be able to extend the approach to other games.            :
                                                                            :
4.2) RGB polarity.                                                           :
                                                                            :
       While all raster monitors accept RGB inputs, they can have           :
       either positive or negative logic.  The majority of games use        :
       positive logic (when the voltage is on, the electron gun turns       :
       on, and you get a bright image), but Nintendo games use              :
       negative logic, which works the other way around.                    :
                                                                            :
       RGB signals are analog signals; you'll need an analog inverter       :
       to get around the problem; a CMOS hex inverter (say, a 4069),        :
       which is designed to invert digital signals, won't work.  To         :
       be more precise, it theoretically *shouldn't* work, but on           :
       the practical side, a few people have tried it and actually          :
       managed to make it work.  Your mileage may vary.  One tip: if        :
       you try this, make sure you ground all of your unused inputs.        :
                                                                            :
       Meanwhile, the "right way" is to use an analog inversion             :
       circuit for each of the three RGB signals.  It requires a            :
       +12V, -12V, and -5V supply, but some power supplies will             :
       supply all three voltages.  Thanks to Paul Kahler for the            :
       original schematic and document.                                     :
                                                                            :
                                     R3                                     :
                              +-----/\/\/---------+                         :
                              |                   |                         :
                              |     |\   +-- +12V |                         :
                    R1        |     |  \ |        |                         :
       Input ------/\/\/------+-----|-   \        |                         :
                              |     |LM318 \______|_______ Output           :
       -5V --------/\/\/------+  +--|+    /                                 :
                    R2           |  |   /|                                  :
                                 |  | /  |                                  :
                                 |       +--  -12V                          :
                                 GND                                        :
                                                                            :
       R1, R2, and R3 are all identical resistors.  A value of roughly      :
       10K should provide good results.  The LM318 is a high-frequency      :
       op-amp.  Its pinouts are as follows:                                 :
                                                                            :
                         1 Comp/bal     8 Comp                              :
                         2 -in          7 V+                                :
                         3 +in          6 output                            :
                         4 V-           5 Comp/bal                          :
                                                                            :
       The "Comp" pins may be ignored.  An LF356 might also work, but       :
       the 741 is not recommended.                                          :
                                                                            :
4.3) Sync polarity.                                                         :
                                                                            :
       Now that we can generate the RGB signals our monitor requires,       :
       we still have to put the signals on the screen in an orderly         :
       fashion.  The is what the "sync" signals are for.                    :
                                                                            :
       Again, we run into the problem that some boards produce              :
       negative sync, and some don't.  Fortunately, since all sync          :
       signals are digital, the process is much simpler; using a            :
       *really* fast CMOS hex inverter is a perfectly legitimate way        :
       around the problem.  A TTL inverter should also work; all sync       :
       signals generally operate at TTL levels.  Still, this is dicey       :
       business, so your mileage may still vary.                            :
                                                                            :
4.4) Composite versus Separate Sync.                                        :
                                                                            :
       Now that you know how to invert syncs, you're ready for the          :
       last bit - the two flavors of syncs and how to mix and match         :
       them.                                                                :
                                                                            :
       Older monitors often had separate sync inputs; one for               :
       horizontal sync (the retracing of the beam across the screen),       :
       and one for vertical sync (the return of the beam from the           :
       bottom of the screen to the top of the screen).                      :
                                                                            :
       Newer games (but also many older ones) used monitors which           :
       accepted composite sync; the two signals were combined together      :
       on the board, and a bit of circuitry in the monitor determines       :
       whether a given sync pulse is a horizontal or vertical retrace.      :
                                                                            :
       If you have an older game that outputs separate syncs, and           :
       a newer monitor that can only accept composite sync, you can         :
       combine the two using digital logic.  Simply "OR" the two            :
       signals together with a TTL chip to obtain the composite sync        :
       signal.                                                              :
                                                                            :
       Since both composite and separate syncs can be positive or           :
       negative, it may be necessary to invert the composite sync           :
       signal after the ORing stage.  If this is the case, just             :
       use a NOR gate instead.                                              :
                                                                            :
4.5) Sync shortcuts.                                                        :
                                                                            :
       If you've got schematics for your games, take a closer look          :
       at them.  The game's wiring harness may show separate syncs,         :
       but the schematic itself may show that there are unused pins         :
       for composite sync.  All the old Williams games (Defender,           :
       Stargate, Joust, Robotron, etc...) are like this, as is              :
       Atari's Missile Command.                                             :
                                                                            :
       A little schematic-browsing can make your life much easier.          :
                                                                            :
       One last cheat -- if your monitor only supports separate             :
       sync, you may be able to get away with connecting a composite        :
       sync signal to either the horizontal input or to both inputs.        :
       No guarantees, but you might as well try it as a "first shot".       :
                                                                            :
+------------.                                                              :
5) Inversion. \                                                             :
---------------`------------------------------------------------------------.
                                                                            :
5.1) Smoke and mirrors.                                                     :
                                                                            :
       Some games have mirrors in the cabinets which reflect the            :
       video output.  This is great, if you're playing Asteroids            :
       Deluxe in the original cabinet.  This sucks, however, if             :
       you're trying to put an Asteroids Deluxe boards in a                 :
       conventional Asteroids cabinet.  Most of these games have pins       :
       on their edge connectors for X- and Y-inversion; pulling these       :
       pins high (+5V) or low (GND) will invert the image in the            :
       appropriate axis.  Play around until you've got something            :
       that looks right on your screen.                                     :
                                                                            :
5.2) Cocktails, anyone?                                                     :
                                                                            :
       To further complicate things, some games have "cocktail" pins,       :
       which are pulled high or low depending on the wiring harness.        :
       On upright games, the signal on the "cocktail" pin tells the         :
       game *not* to invert the image when player 2 is up.  On              :
       cocktail machines, the signal tells the game *to* invert             :
       player 2's image.                                                    :
                                                                            :
       Finally, and this is the *really* weird one, some games use          :
       both approaches -- a PLAYER1 and a PLAYER2 pin, for instance,        :
       were used on the Asteroids cocktail machine, both to activate        :
       and de-activate the two players' control panels, but also to         :
       control video inversion.                                             :
                                                                            :
       Our point here is not to confuse - merely to say that if the         :
       game appears upside-down or backwards for no apparent reason,        :
       you should probably take a closer look at the pinouts.  It's         :
       amazing the number of variations that are out there, and it's        :
       sometimes a miracle that things show up correctly at all!            :
       Again, our earlier rule of thumb applies:  If you don't like         :
       what you see, play with it until you do.                             :
                                                                            :
       As a last shot - sometimes it's not on the pins at all.  More        :
       recent games control their "cocktail" versus "upright" behavior      :
       by means of a DIP switch setting.  Fiddle with these if you          :
       think you've tried *everything*...                                   :
                                                                            :
5.3) It's *STILL* upside-down!                                              :
                                                                            :
       Finally, with vertically-mounted games, there are no                 :
       guarantees.  Some manufacturers believed that a monitor              :
       should be rotated 90 degrees to the right, and some believed         :
       it should be rotated 90 degrees to the left.  So you're not          :
       the only person who's confused.  The whole industry was              :
       confused at one time or another, and this is the historical          :
       result.                                                              :
                                                                            :
       What this means is that if you've tried all of the above             :
       techniques, and you've got a game designed for a vertically-         :
       mounted monitor, you may be out of luck.  The manufacturer of        :
       that game used the same monitor, but they turned it the other        :
       way around.                                                          :
                                                                            :
       You can get around this by reversing the wires to the                :
       deflection coils on the neck of the monitor (and if you're           :
       really fancy, installing a switch to go back and forth               :
       whenever you like), but like most monitor work, this is a            :
       fairly advanced modification, and we recommend that you be           :
       absolutely certain that you know what you're doing before you        :
       try this.                                                            :
                                                                            :
       Remember, monitor hacking can be a dangerous sport unless you        :
       know what you're doing and take proper safety precautions.           :
       Keep in mind that with all the space you've saved doing              :
       conversions, you can probably squeeze in another cabinet.            :
       Replacing *yourself* is much more difficult.  If you've never        :
       hacked on a monitor before, ask some folks on the 'net about         :
       proper safety procedures (such as discharging the tube, etc.)        :
       before you begin.                                                    :
                                                                            :
+---------------------------------------------------------------------------.